Thursday, September 4, 2014

Glacier National Park 2014

When Glacier National Park was established in 1910, there were 150 glaciers within the park's one million acres in northwestern Montana.  As of summer 2014, there are only 25.  Rangers are not concerned that the glaciers are melting but they are alarmed by the rate at which they are disappearing.  They predict that all of the glaciers will be gone from the park by 2020 (only 6 years from now), which is why I am glad I went to the park while it is still possible to see a few of its chilly namesakes, such as the Jackson Glacier.

This was a fairly rugged trip, involving 2 weeks of tent camping and about 75 miles of hiking and backcountry backpacking.  Such efforts were greatly rewarded.  Here's an early morning view to the east of the Continental Divide at Gunsight Pass after a 3-mile hike rising 1,600-feet from Gunsight Lake.


The trail was quite narrow and steep in some places, since it is not much more than a goat trail.  Mountain Goats are king at the "Crown of the Continent," and one learns to give them room on the trail. 

     
A ranger-led hike to the Grinnell Glacier was another highlight.  In this picture, you can see three glaciers: Gem Glacier (atop the ridge to the left shrouded by the cloud), Salamander Glacier (cradled in the mountain to the right), and Grinnell Glacier (laying along the shore of Upper Grinnell Lake).  Salamander used to be joined with Grinnell, but melting has created two separate glaciers for now. 

 
One of the animals I have wanted to see all my life is Bighorn Sheep.  I have seen flocks of white Dall's Sheep in Alaska, but finally at Glacier a little boy's dream came true on the hike up to the Grinnell Glacier.  Climate change is shrinking alpine meadow habitat for wild sheep.
 

The hike returning to the Many Glacier Valley was breathtaking but bittersweet.  The source of the beautiful waterfall and milky blue waters of Grinnell Lake is meltwater from the glaciers.

Glacier is one of the last places in the U.S. to see wild Grizzly Bears.  Loud hiking and smart food storage prevented me from seeing any Grizzlies on this trip (which is just fine, thank you). 
A day hike to the Ptarmigan Pass brings you to a tunnel that was blasted through the rock in 1931. 



If you go through the tunnel, there is a gorgeous view of Elizabeth Lake to the west. 


Waterton Lakes National Park in Alberta, Canada, is a sister park to Glacier.  The staff at the historic Prince of Wales Hotel serves high tea in the afternoon, and it comes with a majestic view.